Designing the layout.
Starting out.
Layout design can begin when
you have an aim or a purpose, a space to work with and a budget to work to.
To begin, measure the available
space carefully and draw a scale plan, marking the position of existing services
(plumbing and electrical) and the position of windows and doors. Mark also how
the doors and windows open.
Whether the project is for a new
build or a replacement of an existing bathroom the layout will to an extent
be dictated by the availablity of plumbing connections. A bathroom requires
a supply of hot and cold water and a means of discharging waste. The most obvious
restriction is the connection to a soil pipe for waste from the toilet, because
of the size of the pipe.
The position of doors and windows
comes next. Wet areas are best kept clear of windows and doors need space to
open. Also consider what is going to be seen by someone entering the room. If
possible avoid puting the toilet in direct line of sight from the door.
The construction of the walls and
floors needs to be considered. A concrete floor is difficult and messy to dig
up, but a timber floor can be easilly lifted to allow access to move pipes.
However the direction of the floor joists will have an effect on how easilly
pipes can be rerouted.
Similarly soild walls of brick
or block will require more work to hide pipework than a stud wall of timber
and plasterboard. The wall type also dictates how items will be fixed in position.
Different tyoes of wall require different types of screws and fixings.
Plumbing options and considerations.
Drainage.
The further the toilet is positioned
from the existing soil/vent pipe the more expensive the plumbing will be. Some
properties have external soil pipes and others are internal, depending on age
of property and local building/planning regulations, and a close look at the
existing drainage is essential. It is not always easy to extend or move an external
soil pipe due to the position of windows and other obsticles. Internal soil
pipes can be extended and disguised by a timber boxing which can be tiled or
decorated, but if a horizontal run of more than a couple of meters is planned
be very careful that there is enough downward gradient to allow efficient drainage.
Soil pipes are difficult to position under floors because of their diameter.
Where it is impossible
to connect onto a standard soil pipe, there is always the option of a
macerater. This reduces toilet waste to a pulp and pumps it through a
much smaller diameter pipe. (22mm) However care is needed in the use of
these systems as items other than normal human waste or toilet tissue
can damage them and cause a blockage. Many local authorities will not
permit the use of a macerater sytem if it is the only toilet in the property.
In normal use they are excellent, but take care. |
The macerater sits behind the pan. |
Usually waste from the bathroom is drained by
gravity and it is thus vital to ensure that the planned waste pipes are running
downhill so that the water can drain away, however a macerater pumps waste away
and can even pump vertically upwards, so it is an ideal solution if you are
wanting to put a loo in a basement.
Drainage from wash basins is normally via 32mm
diameter plastic pipe, and baths via 40mm plastic pipe. These also drain by
gravity, but because the basin is relitively high up and the base of a bath
is some didtance from floor lever, it is sually easy to achieve a fall on the
waste pipes. Shower cubicles can present a problem here. Because the shower
tray is fitted close to the floor the waste is very low. Sometimes it is necessary
to build a plinth to set the shower tray on in order to provide a fall for drainage.
Sunken baths will obviously present similar problems.
In an ideal situation waste pipes should be
run beneath the floor so that they are hidden, but the direction of the floor
joists will have a bearing on the viability of this. Surface mounted pipes should
be avoided if possible, from an asthetic perspective.
Water Supply.
Hot and cold water is normally
delivered in the UK via 15mm pipework. This is available in copper or flexible
plastic tube, and the range of modern push-fit connections makes the work much
easier than the old system of solder. Properly fitted, these connections are
very secure. These pipes are easy to hide in stud (plasterboard) walls and under
timber floors, and can even be sunk into solid walls without too much fuss.
There are, however, different types of hot water supply in regular use, and
it is important to identify what type of domestic hot water system you have.
Click here for
more information. Your hot water supply system will dictate what type of taps
and shower valves will be best for your situation.
Bidets are now normally available
only with over rim feed from a mixer tap. The ascending spray type must be provided
with a dedicated hot water supply to comply with water regulations in most areas
now.
As with waste pipes, the final
job will be much improved if you can avoid having surface mounted pipes. If
it is impossible to avoid try to arrange your layout so that exposed pipe runs
are minimised. Also consider using furniture to hide pipes, or if space permits,
building a false wall (either full or part height) or a raised floor area to
accomodate plumbing.
Design
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